Friday, April 27, 2012

The not-so-humble Basil

It was not until I arrived in Australia that I had my first conscious taste of basil, at a Vietnamese pho restaurant in Parramatta’s Church Street.


Church Street - Paramatta


I used the adjective ‘conscious’ to describe that claimed initial tasting experience as a hedge against any possibility of me having actually taken basil before during one of my many trips to Thailand (from its south to the north), but without knowing of it or recognizing the taste to be aware of the fact.


Khlong or canal in Bangkok

I love the way Vietnamese cuisine, very much like Thai food, employs generous accompaniments of fresh herbs like basil, Vietnamese mint (chian-horm in Penang Hokkien), bean sprouts, coriander etc, to its dishes. It’s not unlike our Malaysian ulam (Malay fresh salad) except the Viets and Thais do it in almost every dish.


Ulam - Malay Fresh Salad

Most of all, I love the way how basil leaves dipped in the hot steaming soup of pho brings out all those lovely herbal fragrance to enhance the beefy flavour. And I like to pop the bean sprouts in at the very last second so as to keep them still firm and crunchy as I do justice to the pho.


Pho

Strangely, despite traditional and regular use by Straits-born Penang Chinese of ulam sambal belacan with their meals, I hadn’t come across the lovely basil.


Sambal Belacan - from Lydia Teh's My Kitchen

The ulam I have been familiar with during my teen years in Penang consisted mainly of (not an exhaustive sampling):


Fruits on Cashew Tree

·  cashew tree shoots (pucuk janggus in Bahasa, janggoi heoh in Penang Hokkien; pucuk ménté or pucuk monyet in Indonesian) - only the shoots are suitable for ulam as the mature leaves (see above photo) would be too bitter and fibrous


Cashew Shoots - Pucuk Janggus

·  long beans (kacang panjang in Bahasa, ch’ai tau in Penang Hokkien, tau gok in Cantonese) - also known as Chinese long beans, asparagus beans (vigna unguiculata ssp sesquipedalis), yardlong beans, long-podded cowpea, and snake beans in Australia


Long Beans - Ch'au Tau

·  4-angle beans (kacang botol in Bahasa, see-kark-tau in Penang Hokkien) – also known as winged beans, princess beans, Goa beans (Psophocarpus tetragonolobus)


4-Angle Beans - See-Kark-Tau

·  Vietnamese mint or Vietnamese cilantro or Cambodian mint or hot mint (persicaria odorata) (daun kesom or sometimes daun laksa in Bahasa, chian-horm in Penang Hokkien)


Vietnamese Mint

There is a traditional belief in Vietnam that Persicaria odorata would repress sexual urges. A Vietnamese saying ‘rau răm, giá sống’, which translates literally into 'Vietnamese coriander (or mint), raw bean sprouts', buttresses the cultural notion of Vietnamese mint having the opposite effect of Viagra wakakaka, while bean sprouts bring out the Tiger in men ;-). Hey, stir-fry bean sprouts in a mix of sambal belacan and harm-yee (dry salted fish) and we will all be potential were-tigers after eating that wakakaka.


Were-Tiger


But fortunately Vietnamese Buddhist monks aren't like kaytee wakakaka, and instead grow Vietnamese mint in their private gardens so as to eat it frequently as a helpful step in their celibate life.


Bean Sprouts

Alamak, remind me not to take too much Vietnamese mint, wakakaka.

Cabbage

·  and of course slices of cabbage, cucumber (timun), green mango, barng kuang*, carrots, onions and any raw crunchy veggie and zillions of other delectable herbs like mint, but unfortunately no basil


Jicama Vine


* barng kuang turnip or Chinese turnip, the latter term having gained local recognition through incorrect naming. It’s ubi sengkuang in Bahasa. But then one day I saw in a couple of highly reliable cookbooks that it’s actually jicama (pronounced in the Spanish manner as hecama) or yam bean (pachyrhizus erosus) or Mexican turnip or Mexican turnip.


Jicama - barng kuang

Now, there are many varieties of basil. 


Italian Basil

Greek Columnar Basil

Greek Basil


Lettuce Leaf Basil


African Blue Basil - 'Dark Opal'


Red Rubin Basil


Genovese Basil


Cinnamon Basil


Thai Basil


For example, the Hindus considered the basil plant (ocimum sanctum) as sacred. They called it Tulasi or Surasah in Sanskrit, Tulsi in Hindi, Tiruttizhai, Tiruttilai or Tulasi in Tamil, Sivatulasi in Malayalam and Oddhi in Telugu.


Holy Basil

I have added just the Tamil, Malayalam and Telugu names for the plant as these, as far as I know, are the three major southern Indian languages spoken in Malaysia.


Lemon Basil


Lime Basil

In Bahasa, ocimum sanctum is called Oku, Ruku-ruku or Sulasi. As in the case of Bahasa, languages of countries with significant Hindu influence in their culture, like Thai, Khmer, Indonesian, Laotian, and Burmese also have their own names for basil.


Tulasi (Holy) Basil

The above names are those for the sacred basil or holy basil. Obviously, as I mentioned above, there are other types of basil, for example, Kemangi, Daun selaseh, Selasi jantan in Bahasa.


Holy Basil

The Hindus believed the basil or Tulasi is sacred to Lord Vishnu and a reincarnation of his consort Lakshmi, or that of some of his avatars, like Rama and Sita.


Lakshmi

Steward Lee Allen in his book, In The Devil’s Garden – A sinful History of Forbidden Food, provided a variation to the Hindu myth. An Indian girl named Vrinda (incidentally also another name for Lakshmi) was so distressed by her husband’s death that she committed Sati, the Hindu act of devotional self immolation by widows.



The title Sati means 'Righteous' - Hindus believe the first Indian woman to commit Sati was Parvati, consort of Lord Shiva. She did so to protest strongly against the wrongs and insults to her husband, rather than as a devoted widow joining her deceased husband in death. When a woman committed Sati, she would hold a sprig of Tulasi in her hands.


Parvati


So Aneh’s and Tambee’s, just keep an eye on the sweeties if they walk away holding a sprig of Tulasi wakakaka.


Spicy Basil

Back to Stewart Allen's story, the gods was so impressed by Vrinda’s devotion that they turned the ashes of her hair into the Tulasi, the sweet and fragrant basil or ocimum sanctum. They ordered their priests to revere the sacred plant.


Holy Basil

It seems that some Indian courts still make Hindus take an oath by placing their hands over this holy plant, akin to Christians doing so with the Holy Bible. Apart from its use by Hindus as a purifier during religious ceremonies, the sacred basil is also employed by Indians to keep snakes and mosquitoes away, and for general health purposes.


Basil Napolitano

Alexander the Great was responsible (or at least his generals and soldiers were) for the basil going from India to Europe, where, particularly with the Italians, it became popular as a herb.


Cuban Basil

Steward Allen humorously narrated how the Italians, being Catholics, slowly modified Vrinda's unacceptable suicide into the tale of an Italian maid, Lisabetta, deeply distressed by the death of her lover. She cut off his head, buried it in a pot, grew a basil plant in the container, and watered it with her tears. The plant grew by leaps and bounds because of the special fertiliser. It was said the plant’s amazing growth attracted pilgrimages from people all over Italy.


African Blue Basil - 'Kasar'

African Blue Basil


Thus, not surprisingly, basil became a symbol of love in medieval Italy and also because the leaves resemble the shape of hearts, and was called ‘kiss-me-Nicholas’. Italian women would wear basil to charm and (hope to) bewitch a man of their desire. Young maidens would wear a sprig of basil in their hair to profess their availability wakakaka.


Thai Basil - 'Queen Siam'

Similarly in Romania, if a boy accepts a sprig of basil from a girl, it means they were engaged to be married. Gulp, I hope this doesn’t apply to Vietnamese culture.


Sweet Basil

The name basil is derived from Greek basileus (king), because of the royal fragrance of this herb.


Genovese and Red Rubin Basils

There was also a story that the word basil was derived from the terrifying basilisk, which was a mythical creature, half-lizard and half-dragon. It was claimed the basilisk was hatched from the egg of a serpent or toad by a cockerel.


Basilisk

According to Greek mythology, if the basilisk stared at a person, he was as good as dead. Coincidentally, the antidote against the fatal stare, breath or even the bite of the basilisk was the basil leaf. Nonetheless, regardless of the mythical nature of the fable, the ancient Greeks used basil as a cure for venomous bites.


Thai Basil

Claims of Alexander the Great taking basil to Europe notwithstanding, apparently basil was already used by the ancient Egyptians (Ptolemies or the Late Period) because archaeologists found a sprig of basil during an excavation of a rubbish dump in the city of Memphis.


Cinnamon Basil

I frequently partake of the delicious Vietnamese dish Pho Dac Biet (combination beef noodles soup), which uses fresh basil as fragrant garnishing. The next time I do so, I’ll certainly treat the basil with its ancient and amazing pedigree with more respect.


Pho Dac Biet

And yes, gulp again, I’ll be careful about accepting a sprig of basil from the Vietnamese sweetie who always serves me wakakaka.



Saturday, April 14, 2012

Foreign spices add flavour to Queen's English


In happier times wakakaka a couple of years back, I penned an article for the Centre for Policy Initiatives (CPI), titled London is cultural Mecca for M’sian English speakers? In that article I discussed the snobbery of the English speaking middle class Malaysians (and I didn’t exclude myself wakakaka). I have to admit the CPI editor did a good job improving on my submitted draft, but I’ve always been greedy for words, so I have not only resorted to my original more lengthy draft but also amended and expanded on it to publish on KTemoc Kongsamkok.


Two Chinese businessmen from a transnational organization met in a Kowloon bar for drinks after a company’s workshop in Hong Kong. As the local man spoke only Cantonese and English while the Malaysian spoke Mandarin, Hokkien, Teochew, Malay, English and even a few handy (mainly swear) words in Tamil but alas, no Cantonese, both soon realized to their mutual embarrassment that their only common language was English.


After several copious dosages of the happy brew had passed their lips, and the conversation grew friendlier, the Hong-Kongite felt comfortable enough to inform the other person in his sing-song Canto accent, “Your English is very funny”, smirking as he did so.

The Malaysian guffawed and replied, “If you say so” by deliberately imitating the other’s Cantonese tonal rise and falls. Imagine ‘... say so’ being uttered respectively in the first and third tone common in most Chinese dialects.


Now, we all know the general English speaking Hong-Kongites have a delightful Canto lilt in their spoken English though we have to admit they would, for some strange reasons, pronounced don’t as a disconcerting doe’ng (and won’t as woeng). But then, just how well does a typical English speaking Malaysian speak English, bearing in mind that not everyone is a Patrick Teoh or (the late) Robert Lam.

But it did say something for those two Chinese businessmen to be teasing each other on their spoken English. Obviously both men felt he was superior to the other in his oral English proficiency.

There’s a frightful snobbery in a person’s command of a non-native language. In the past the snobs in the English speaking world, especially the English themselves, would frequently resort to Latin phrases in their conversation or even written word. I have to admit I’m at times just as guilty wakakaka.

While admittedly it would be fairly difficult to find good English substitutes for some Latin phrases – eg. fait accompli, pro rata, etcetera (etc) - imagine using verbum sapienti satis est (a word to the wise is enough) when one could easily resort instead to enough said or the more modernised colloquial ‘nuff said.

But obviously the occasional judicious employment of Latin words and phrases would allude to the speaker’s or author’s elite education, as it was intended to do.


To Britons of an earlier era, the allure of Pax Romana with all its attendant powers was a glorious association, particular for their own pro-empire ambition of a Pax Britannica. And by adopting use of some of the dead language's phraseologies, it would as if in some indirect ways confer on the user a patina of the old magnificent grandeur of the Roman Empire.

Perhaps in the subconscious of those language snobs, they became citizens of Great Rome, then the centre of the known world, a glorious mantle they wanted for Great Britain to inherit as the ‘rightful’ successor, when they could utter at political rallies, say, vox populi, vox Dei (the voice of the people is the voice of God).


Today some English speaking people might have abandoned the idea of belonging to the by-now amorphous Pax Romana but that haven’t stop them from mingling their English with what they believe to be continental sophistication, as in ‘There is a certain je ne sais quoi in Ms Molek. She excites me.’

And all I need to say in place of that French phrase would have been mademoiselle having ‘a quality or attribute that is difficult to describe or express’. But then, how dull, how unsophisticated that would be for snobbish me!


Well, for some Malaysians and Hong-Kongites, Pax Britannia is just as attractive as Pax Romana. The way we non-natives speak English, if we believe we speak good English, would be something to flaunt around especially among our linguistic ‘inferiors’.

Snobs, snobbish, oh, the snobbery of the English speaking middle class in Malaysia.

There was a time when some Malaysians would smile condescendingly at those who spelt ‘programme’ or ‘colour’ in its American versions, dismissing the authors as lower class creatures. They nodded patronizingly when one of the ‘lower creatures’ pronounced ‘vase’ as ‘vaise’ (as in a Teutonic pronunciation of ‘ways’) and sometimes would even cruelly feint their inability to comprehend what had been said.


And not unlike our Hong-Kongite businessman, they would smirk when the local Ah Beng spoke in English.

So what if Ah Beng is a multi-millionaire. That’s not the point - “Look old boy, that dear old chap can hardly speak a decent word of English. But hardly cricket to expect him to keep up with us, wouldn’t you say?”

Even our Indonesian neighbours feel it chic to toss the odd English words into a conversation or presentation – “Ruang lingkup yang akan kami meng-exposé, as a team, adalah …..” The presenter would then smile at the startled foreigner and jokingly gloss over his attempt at multi-lingual sophistication as “Itulah Bahasa Java.”

According to the dictionary, a snob is a person who imitates, cultivates, or slavishly admires social superiors and is condescending or overbearing to others.


Incidentally the word ‘snob’ originated around 1781. It was purportedly first used as a nickname for a cobbler or cobbler's apprentice. But its gradual usage eventually came to imply that ‘snob’ was a person of low class or one lacking good breeding but one who would imitate in a vulgar fashion his social superiors.

Our English speaking middle class man - and he has to be a man, wouldn’t he, ‘old top, as women are such delightful creatures’ wakakaka - obviously cultivates, at least in spoken English, his Anglo-Saxon ‘superiors’ whom he greatly admires though he would publicly and vehemently deny that, particularly today when it is no longer vogue to admit reverence for the ways of a former colonial master.

In some cases, he not only endeavours to speak pukka English but would perhaps even be as fastidious in his dressing, mannerisms, social etiquette, etc, as a pompous English popinjay, though perhaps our Malaysian would be more subtle in his punctilious imitation of his cultural and linguistic idol.

The occasional trips to London, his cultural Mecca, and even the Sussex and Cotswold countryside, would be obligatory, and events to joyfully share with his peers – “Oh my goodness, they have ruined the Oval. The green is utterly wretched. I am also mortified with the standards of English cricket today.”


Then to complete the character of a snob, he would of course need to sneer, or at best smile condescendingly at his own countrymen who cannot speak with the fluency and the BBC accent he has painstakingly cultivated.

Don’t blame him as after all Margaret Thatcher, the daughter of an English grocer, learnt to speak like one to the manner born (and not ‘manor born’ as some would incorrectly argue).


Dear old Bill Shakespeare himself introduced us, via Hamlet, to that phrase ‘to the manner born’ when the latter replied to Horatio:

Ay, marry, is't:
But to my mind, though I am native here
And to the manner born, it is a custom
More honour'd in the breach than the observance

Am I not a snob here? But then, see what good spoken and snobbish accented English has conferred unto Margaret Thatcher … nothing less than a prime ministership and a Barony.

Our English speaking Malaysian snob surely must receive no less.

And among the various ethnic middle class in Malaysia, especially the non-Malays, each would smile condescending at the other, assured in his belief that the other’s English is a joke.

But alas, very few seek to strive for excellence in his spoken Bahasa, the national language of his country. They would instead argue, weren’t Sri Vijaya and Majapahit respectively Buddhist and Hindu empires, where Javanese (and perhaps some form of Sanskrit), rather than Malay, was the lingua franca?


Balram, the hero in Aravind Adiga’s (2008 Man Booker Prize winning) book ‘The White Tiger’ confessed in his letter to Chinese premier Wen Jianbao that the first phrase in English he learned from his ex employer’s wife was “What a fucking joke.”

And I suspect our intrepid Malaysian businessman in that Kowloon bar would guffaw at the spoken English of his Kong-Kong colleague, and vice versa, and also borrow Balram's now immortalized phrase to say, “What a fucking joke.”